In this class, I’m going to show you how to draft an A-line V-neck dress using a bodice block or a well-fitting basic pattern.
This is Class 1 in a new dressmaking series, where we’ll move from drafting through to professional construction techniques. The dress features a clean V-neckline, optional length variations, a loose lining, and in-seam pockets.
If you already work with pattern drafting blocks, this tutorial will slot neatly into your existing workflow. If you’re working from a basic pattern instead (such as my Copen pattern), this process will still work for you.
A bodice block that fits your body
or a basic pattern (such as the Copen bodice)
Pattern paper (drafting paper recommended)
Pencil
Ruler
French curve
Tape
Scissors
Tracing wheel
My block includes 4 cm (1½″) of ease at bust, waist and hip – if yours differs, take this into account as you draft.
Sleeveless A-line dress
Low V-neckline
Optional short (above knee) or long length (ankle)
Loose lining
In-seam pockets
Centre-back invisible zip (optional alternatives discussed)
1) Move your darts into a side dart
Use dart manipulation to move your existing dart(s) into a side seam dart.
Mark the dart position 8 cm (3”) down from the underarm on the side seam.
Draw a line from this mark to the bust apex.
Cut along that line to the bust apex, leaving a tiny hinge (2–3mm / ⅛”).
Cut down one dart leg of the dart you want to close (shoulder / neckline / waist), again leaving a hinge at the apex.
Close the unwanted dart, tape in place, and true the edges.
Note: For this style, you generally want to fully close shoulder and neckline edge darts so the shoulder width stays accurate.
2) Optional: Add an armhole dart to prevent armhole gaping
Because this dress is sleeveless, you may need a small dart at the front armhole to prevent gaping.
Position the dart around the front armhole notch area.
Manipulate it into the side seam dart if needed.
If you’re unsure, you can skip this initially and test in a sample.
3) Remove 3 mm (⅛”) at the High Point Shoulder
To help prevent gaping at a low neckline:
Remove 3 mm (⅛”) at the High Point Shoulder (HPS).
Reconnect smoothly to the end of the shoulder.
4) Decide the finished shoulder width
Mark how wide you want the shoulder to be.
My example:
Remove 2.5 cm (1”) from the HPS
Remove 2.5 cm (1”) from the end of shoulder
Result: ~6 cm (2⅜”) finished shoulder width
(Your shoulder width will vary depending on your body. Consider bra coverage.)
5) Mark the base of the V-neckline + draw the neckline
Decide how deep you want the neckline.
I positioned the base of the neckline in line with the bust apex.
Draw the neckline with a soft shallow curve using a French curve (this generally fits better and is more flattering than a straight line).
6) Check if you need a neckline dart (to prevent gaping)
Low V-necks often require removing a dart from the neckline.
A. Measure bust radius
Measure from bust apex to under bust / rib cage.Use this as a radius to draw a bust circle around the apex on your pattern.
B. Decide if a neckline dart is needed
If the base of your neckline is lower than the top of the bust circle, you may need a neckline dart as a starting point.
C. Starting dart sizes (guide)
A cup: 1 cm (⅜”)
B cup: 1.5 cm (⅝”)
C cup+: 2 cm (¾”)
D. For very low necklines
Increase dart width by 3 mm (⅛”) for every 4 cm (1½”) between:
the top of the bust circle and
the base of the neckline
E. Remove the dart
Place the top dart leg in line with the top of the bust circle
Connect to the bust apex
Use dart manipulation to send this dart into the side seam dart
Redraw the neckline smoothly with a French curve
Always sample the bodice/upper dress to confirm neckline fit.
7) Adjust the armhole
Adjust the underarm height and armhole curve as desired.
My example:
Lowered underarm 1 cm (⅜”)
Square off at the side seam approximately 1 cm (⅜”)
Redraw armhole from end of shoulder to underarm
Fit check: Ensure the shoulder + underarm cover the bra/undergarment you plan to wear.
8) Extend the centre front to your desired dress length
Choose your length from the waist down.
My examples:
Short dress: 42 cm (16½”) from waist
Long dress: 82 cm (33”) from waist
(Reference height: 170 cm / 5’7″)
Extend the centre front down to your chosen length.
Square across the hem to the same width as the low hip.
Connect hem to low hip at the side seam.
If your pattern ends at the waist:
Mark low hip approx 20 cm (8”) below waist (or your body depth measurement).
Add ease (mine: +4 cm / 1½”), divide by 4.
For many blocks, the front is wider than the back (e.g., +5 mm / ¼” front, -5 mm / ¼” back).
9) Mark the A-line ‘pivot’ line
Find the centre of the hem.
Draw a line from centre hem up to the high hip at the base of the waist dart.
If you don’t have a waist dart:
Extend a line down from the bust apex, parallel to centre front, to find an approximate centre placement.
High hip can be placed halfway between waist and low hip.
10) Slash and spread to add A-line volume
To create the A-line insertion:
Cut from the hem up to the base of the waist dart (high hip area).
Cut in from the side seam along the high hip line, leaving a small hinge (2–3 mm / ⅛”) at the waist dart base (pivot point).
Pivot the pattern open at the hem until you’ve added your desired volume.
Tape in place and fill the gap with paper.
My examples:
Short dress insertion: +4 cm (1½”)
Long dress insertion: +14 cm (5½”)
If adding a lot of volume:
Use two insertion points to distribute it more evenly (one under the dart + one between dart and side seam).
11) Add the side seam extension
Whatever volume you add in the insertion, add half of that amount to the side seam hem as an extension.
My examples:
Short dress: add 2 cm (¾”)
Long dress: add 7 cm (2¾”)
Close the side dart while drawing the side seam.
Options:
For a straighter, relaxed silhouette: connect underarm straight down to the hem extension.
For more shaping: curve gently through the waist using a French curve.
13) Correct the side seam length
Because A-line garments often sit partly on the bias at the side seam, the side seam can stretch and end up longer than the centre front/back.
To account for this:
Measure how much length was ‘lost’ at high hip when you opened the A-line insertion.
Add that amount back to the side seam hem.
Then remove a small amount to prevent side seam drop.
My examples:
Short dress: remove 5 mm (¼”)
Long dress: remove 1 cm (⅜”)
Redraw the hem curve so it’s flat at the centre front, then reconnect side seam to underarm.
14) Mark the hem band
Measure up 7 cm (3”) from the hem, following the curved hem line.
This will become the hem facing/hem band pattern piece.
15) Mark the pocket opening + draft the pocket shape
Position pocket top 2.5 cm (1”) down from the waist on side seam
(General range: 2.5–10 cm / 1–4”)
Pocket opening length: 17 cm (6½”)
Mark notches for the pocket opening.
Draw the pocket in a soft curve shape and ensure your hand fits comfortably.
16) True the side dart
Score dart legs with a tracing wheel (makes folding easier).
Check both dart legs match. Adjust if needed.
Fold dart bulk down toward hem and true the side seam line.
Open dart and redraw the trued seam line.
Back the dart away from the apex:
Average: 2.5 cm (1”)
I used 1.5 cm (⅝”) (personal fit preference)
Cut-away dart option:
If dart width is larger than 5 cm (2”), consider converting to a cut-away dart.
17) Add grainlines (Front)
Choose one:
Option A (straight grain): grain parallel to centre front
Can be cut on fold or with a centre front seam
Option B (bias cut): grain at 45° to centre front
Recommend a centre front seam
Pocket grainline: parallel to side seam
Hem band grainline: cut on fold, parallel to centre front (even if outer is bias)
18) Draft the lining adjustments (Front)
Mark changes for lining:
Add 3 mm (⅛”) ease to side seam
Shorten lining hem by 4 cm (1½”)
Remove 2–3 mm (1/16–⅛”) at neckline and armhole (favouring)
19) Draft the back neckline + shoulder
Mark the same shoulder measurement used on the front (mine: 2.5 cm / 1” from HPS).
Remove/ignore the back shoulder dart (not used), if your pattern has one.
To match shoulder width perfectly:
Fold front shoulder seam allowance area under and align to the back at HPS
Copy the finished shoulder width across
Draw back neckline with a French curve, keeping it flat at centre back.
20) Match the back armhole + underarm height
Match the back underarm adjustment to the front (mine: lowered 1 cm / ⅜”)
Connect shoulder to underarm smoothly
Check transitions by placing front and back together at under arm seam, and then shoulder to ensure smooth flow.
21) Extend the back to length + add A-line volume
Repeat the same method as the front:
Extend centre back to desired length (same as front)
Square hem to low hip width
Find centre hem
Slash and spread from hem to high hip pivot (base of waist dart)
Add the same insertion amount as front:
Short: +4 cm (1½”)
Long: +14 cm (5½”)
Add the same side seam hem extension (half the insertion)
Tape and fill gaps with paper.
22) Copy the front side seam shape onto the back
To ensure the side seams match perfectly:
Close the front dart.
Lay the front over the back, aligning underarm and hem.
Use a tracing wheel to transfer the side seam line and hem point.
Redraw smoothly to centre back, keeping hem flat at centre back.
23) Transfer pocket notches to the back
Align front over back at side seam
Trace the pocket notch positions
Mark clearly
24) Add hem band + lining adjustments (Back)
Repeat as per front:
Hem band: measure up 7 cm (3”)
Lining: +3 mm (⅛”) side seam ease, -4 cm (1½”) hem, favouring at armhole/neckline 3 mm (1/16–⅛”)
25) Add zipper notch (centre back invisible zip option)
Can use shaped centre back seam; measure in 1 cm (⅜”) at the waist, connect to cross back, and approx. 2 cm (5″) above low hip.
If using a centre back invisible zipper:
Example zip length: 55 cm (21½”)
Place zipper notch 50 cm (19¾”) down from CB neck
Minimum: notch should be 2 cm (¾”) shorter than zip length
Lining zipper notch: 2cm (¾”) below outer zipper notch
26) Add grainlines (Back)
Choose one:
Option A: Grainline parallel to centre back (centre back seam + invisible zip)
Option B: Cut centre back on fold (requires straight CB + move zip to side seam, if needed – depending on front neckline depth it might be possible to wear without a zipper)
Option C: Bias cut (45°) – recommend a centre back seam
Hem band can be cut on fold, grain parallel to centre back.
27) Trace off each piece
From your master pattern, trace:
Front (outer)
Back (outer)
Front lining
Back lining
Pocket pattern
Front hem band
Back hem band
Transfer:
Grainlines
Notches (pocket + zip)
Dart legs + dart point
28) Add seam allowance
Recommended seam allowance:
1cm (⅜”) on all seams
Cut, label, and store your pattern pieces.
Label each piece with:
Pattern name: V-Neck A-Line Dress
What you drafted from: block / pattern
Piece name: Front / Back / Hem band / Pocket
Cut quantity + fabric type
Grainline and whether it’s on fold / bias / centre seam
Suggested cut plan
Outer:
Front – Cut x 1 on Fold | Cut x 2 (with CF seam)
Back – Cut x 1 on Fold | Cut x 2 (with CB seam)
Lining:
Front – Cut x 1 on Fold | Cut x 2 (with CF seam)
Hem Band:
Front Cut x 1 on Fold – Exterior
Back Cut x 1 on Fold – Exterior
Front Cut x 1 on Fold – Lightweight Fusible Interfacing
Back Cut x 1 on Fold – Lightweight Fusible Interfacing
Pockets: Cut 2 in Exterior/Fabric + Cut 2 in Lining (or all lining depending on your preference)
Class 2: How to Sew the V-Neck Dress – Watch on YouTube | Blog Post
Class 3: Professional In-Seam Pockets (step-by-step construction) – Watch on YouTube | Blog Post
Class 4: How to Sew a Thread Chain – Watch on YouTube | Blog Post
