What is a back stitch?
The back stitch is a hand sewing stitch with a variety of uses. The hand stitches are sewn backwards, over themselves (this is visible on the wrong side of the stitching). Creating a very strong stitch, the closest hand stitch to the sewing machine.
With a variety of uses the back stitch can be used to reinforce, repair or sew garments and projects together. Alternatively the decorative look of the stitch can be used for embroidery or appliqué.
For a video on how to sew the stitch and the completion of back stitch appliqué. watch our tutorial on YouTube: How To: Back Stitch (Appliqué).
Sewing a back stitch
Start by choosing your thread and needle. If you are using the back stitch for appliqué I would recommend using embroidery thread (two threads) for a visible finish. Tie a knot at the end of the thread and come through to the right side of the fabric (leaving the knot at the back of the fabric).
Sew the first stitch by sewing into the fabric and along by 1/8″ (2-3mm), come back out of the fabric another 1/8″ (2-3mm) along.
To complete the back stitch, position the needle into the end of the last stitch.
Stitch through the fabric and come back out onto the FRONT of the fabric, 1/8″ (2-3mm) from the thread coming out of the fabric.
TIP: To make sure that your stitches are even, consider using the thread (coming out of the fabric) as the centre point from where the needle enters the fabric (at the end of the last stitch), to where the needle resurfaces.
Why not watch our YouTube tutorial to see how this is done: How To: Back Stitch (Appliqué).
How to appliqué with the back stitch
Start by deciding on the motif you wish to appliqué. I would recommend using a double sided adhesive such as Bondaweb, this will make the sewing process easier. If you are working with Bondaweb you will need to draw your motif REVERSED onto the smooth side of the paper using a pencil.
Position the rough, textured side of the Bondaweb onto the WRONG side of your chosen motif fabric. Iron this onto the fabric with heat (no steam) for 5 seconds. (Please refer to your instructions if you are working with a different double sided adhesive).
Cut out the motif around the drawn line.
Peel off the backing paper on the Bondaweb. This is the trickiest part, use tweezers or your finger nails to get started.
Position the motif onto the fabric, think about the placement of the motif. Position both the motif and the fabric RIGHT side facing up.
Iron the motif onto the fabric using steam or a damp cloth for approximately 10 seconds. (Please check your double sided adhesive instructions.)
You may need to interface the back of the main fabric should you wish to support the motif and stitching. This does depend on the fabric you are working with. Working with a cotton fabric we interfaced the back of the main fabric using a lightweight interfacing.
Complete the backstitch, try using two strands of embroidery thread for a decorative finish. Tie a knot at the end of the thread and bring the needle and thread through to the RIGHT side of the fabric. The knot should be at the back of the fabric.
Complete the back stitch as explained previous, we stitched 1/16″ (1-2mm) away from the edge of the motif. However this will depend on the size of your individual motif and is completely up to you.
To finish take the thread to the WRONG side of the fabric, tie a knot to secure the stitching.
Hopefully you feel able to use your new skills to create beautiful back stitching. Use it for decoration on your next appliqué project or as a sturdy hand stitch to sew a garment or home furnishing project.
P.S. If you want to make a lovely keyring we used in this tutorial, click here for the blog post and corresponding YouTube tutorial: DIY Appliqué Keyring.
A simple hand-sewing technique for appliqué and embroidery
The back stitch is a strong hand-sewing stitch where each stitch is worked backwards over the previous one. On the wrong side of the fabric, the stitches overlap, creating a continuous, reinforced line. Because of this structure, the back stitch is the closest hand stitch to a machine stitch in both strength and appearance.
The back stitch has many uses. It can be used to:
Reinforce seams
Repair garments
Sew projects together by hand
Create decorative embroidery and appliqué
When used decoratively, the back stitch produces a clean, graphic line that works beautifully for outlining shapes in appliqué.
You can watch the full video tutorial here:
How To: Back Stitch (Appliqué) – YouTube Tutorial
Choose a suitable needle and thread for your project.
If you’re using the back stitch for appliqué, I recommend embroidery thread, using two strands for a visible, decorative finish.
Tie a knot at the end of the thread and bring the needle up to the right side of the fabric, leaving the knot on the wrong side.
Insert the needle into the fabric and stitch forward approximately ⅛” (2–3 mm). Bring the needle back up through the fabric another ⅛” (2–3 mm) ahead.
To form the back stitch, insert the needle into the end of the previous stitch.
Bring the needle back up through the fabric ⅛” (2–3 mm) in front of where the thread exits.
Repeat this process, always stitching backwards into the end of the previous stitch.
Tip:
To keep your stitches even, use the thread emerging from the fabric as the centre point. Stitch back into the end of the previous stitch, then bring the needle forward by the same distance each time.
For a visual demonstration, see the YouTube tutorial:
How To: Back Stitch (Appliqué)
Choose the motif you’d like to appliqué. For ease and accuracy, I recommend using a double-sided adhesive such as Bondaweb.
If using Bondaweb:
Draw your motif reversed onto the smooth paper side using a pencil
Place the rough, textured side onto the wrong side of your motif fabric
Iron in place with heat (no steam) for approximately 5 seconds
(Always refer to the manufacturer’s instructions if using a different adhesive)
Cut out the motif along the drawn line.
Carefully peel away the backing paper — this can be fiddly, so tweezers or fingernails can help.
Position the motif onto the fabric, with both the motif and base fabric right side facing up. Take a moment to check placement.
Iron the motif in place using steam or a damp cloth for approximately 10 seconds, or according to your adhesive instructions.
Depending on your fabric choice, you may wish to interface the back of the base fabric for added support. When working with cotton, we used a lightweight interfacing to stabilise the stitching.
Thread your needle with embroidery thread (two strands) and tie a knot. Bring the needle up to the right side of the fabric, leaving the knot on the back.
Using the back stitch technique outlined earlier, stitch around the edge of the motif. We stitched approximately 1⁄16” (1–2 mm) away from the edge, though this will depend on the size and shape of your motif.
Work steadily around the shape, keeping your stitch length consistent.
To finish, take the needle to the wrong side of the fabric and secure the thread with a knot.
You now have a beautifully stitched appliqué, secured with a strong and decorative back stitch. This technique works well for embellishing garments, accessories, and home décor projects.
Use your new skills to add detail to your next sewing project — whether as decorative appliqué or as a durable hand stitch where strength matters.
P.S. If you’d like to make the keyring featured in this tutorial, you can find the full instructions here:
DIY Appliqué Keyring – Blog Post & YouTube Tutorial
