Different sewing threads and their uses…
With a large variety of different threads available it can be a minefield finding the right thread for the job, especially if your relatively new to sewing.
What is the difference between polyester, silk and cotton thread and when should they be used? What are the benefits of each thread, and above all does thread choice matter?
There are a number of different thread brands available. I personally work with Gutermann, however you will find alternative thread companies offer a similar variety of options and the same rules apply.
When should I use polyester thread?
Polyester is your go-to everyday thread, it can be used on a variety of different projects for both hand and machine sewing. Polyester thread has a small amount of ‘give’ and is therefore suitable for use with stretch and knit fabrics. It is strong and durable so can be used on projects that will receive a great deal of wear and tear. It is generally available in the largest colour range.
I personally work with Gutermann Sew All 100% Polyester thread for the majority of projects. This thread is available in a number of different sized spools 100 metres, 250m, 500m and 1000m as well as a wide colour range. When working with Gutermann threads be sure you pick up the right thread when shopping, this is distinguished by the colour at the end of the spool. The Sew All 100% Polyester thread has a cream or white end (100m – cream, 250m, 500m and 1000m – white).
When should I use cotton thread?
Cotton thread is the perfect accompaniment to 100% cotton fabric and is therefore most commonly used in patchwork and quilting. Some sewing purists believe that you should use the same thread as the fabric yarn content, so cotton thread should be used to sew cotton fabric.
Cotton thread has very little ‘give’ and is weaker than other available threads, such as polyester. But it can be perfect for use on lightweight, delicate projects as generally speaking you want the thread to be weaker than the fabric your working with, so any stress on seams causes the thread to break, rather than the fabric to tear.
I personally don’t get much use from cotton thread simply because I don’t have a large variety of colours to hand. Although it’s a nice to have, it’s rarely a ‘must-have’ for sewing projects.
Sewing with silk thread?
Silk is a beautiful thread to work with; both on and off the sewing machine. I predominately use silk thread when hand sewing; finishing hems, basting (tacking), buttonholes and tailoring work. Silk thread is very smooth so travels through even the lightest most delicate fabrics without leaving a mark, as well as being very strong (especially when used in conjunction with beeswax), it is a superb choice for a large variety of hand sewing projects.
Other uses include decorative stitching. On the sewing machine I use silk thread on the top spool when quilting Chanel style jackets. The thread is wonderful at sinking into the textured loose weave.
Uses for topstitching thread?
Topstitching thread is as the name suggests suitable for topstitching. Although standard thread can be used for topstitching the thicker topstitching thread is perfect for use on heavier weight fabrics and provides a decorative look to stitching.
When completing topstitching be sure to work with topstitching thread on the top of the sewing machine and a normal bobbin. You will require a topstitching needle so that the eye of the needle is large enough for the thread to pass through. Try increasing your stitch length to get a better finish; generally speaking the thicker the fabric the larger the stitch length required (the standard stitch length of 2-2.5mm will disappear in thick fabrics such as denim and canvas).
When to use extra strong thread?
Although extra strong thread is not suitable for the majority of every day sewing projects it does it have uses. Especially when working with home furnishing projects. The thread is constructed as a thicker, stronger polyester thread that can take a great deal of wear and tear. It is perfect for use on denim, leather and canvas fabrics as well as rugged repair work.
TIP: It is possible to use extra strong thread for topstitching if you don’t have a suitable topstitching colour to hand.
Sewing with decorative threads (metallic & embroidery)?
Metallic and embroidery threads are fabulous for machine or hand embroidery, creating decorative detailing on garments and home decor projects. With a large variety of different threads available and a superb colour range you should be overwhelmed with choice.
Remember to use a specialist needle when working with metallic and embroidery threads to prevent shedding and snapping of the thread.
Choosing the best thread?
So what do you need to think about when choosing the best thread for your project:
Remember… MOST of the time all purpose polyester thread will do the job, and you get what you pay for.
With such a wide variety of sewing threads available, choosing the right one can quickly feel overwhelming — especially if you’re relatively new to sewing.
What is the difference between polyester, silk and cotton thread? When should each be used? Do thread choices really matter?
The short answer is yes — but not in a complicated way.
There are many thread brands available. I personally work with Gutermann, however most reputable thread companies offer a similar range, and the same principles apply regardless of brand.
Polyester thread is your everyday, all-purpose sewing thread. It can be used for a wide range of projects, both for hand sewing and machine sewing.
Polyester has a small amount of give, which makes it suitable for stretch and knit fabrics. It is also strong and durable, so it performs well on garments that will receive a lot of wear and tear. Another major advantage is colour availability — polyester thread is generally available in the widest colour range.
I personally use Gutermann Sew All 100% Polyester thread for the majority of my projects. It’s available in multiple spool sizes (100 m, 250 m, 500 m and 1000 m) and a very extensive colour range.
If you’re shopping for Gutermann thread, be sure you pick up the correct type. The Sew All polyester thread is identified by the cream or white end of the spool:
100 m spools → cream end
250 m, 500 m and 1000 m spools → white end
Cotton thread is most commonly used with 100% cotton fabrics, which is why it’s particularly popular for patchwork and quilting.
Some sewing purists believe you should match the fibre content of your thread to your fabric — meaning cotton thread for cotton fabric. While this approach can work, it isn’t essential for most garment sewing.
Cotton thread has very little stretch and is weaker than polyester. This can actually be beneficial on lightweight or delicate projects, as it’s generally preferable for the thread to break before the fabric tears if a seam is placed under stress.
Personally, I don’t reach for cotton thread very often. Mainly because I don’t keep a large colour range on hand. It’s a nice-to-have, but rarely a must-have for my sewing projects.
Silk is a beautiful thread to work with — both by hand and on the sewing machine.
I predominantly use silk thread for hand sewing, including:
Hem finishing
Basting (tacking)
Buttonholes
Tailoring and couture techniques
Silk thread is extremely smooth, allowing it to pass through even the lightest, most delicate fabrics without leaving marks. Despite its fine appearance, silk is very strong — especially when used with beeswax — making it ideal for detailed hand sewing.
Silk thread can also be used decoratively. On the sewing machine, I use silk thread on the top spool when quilting Chanel-style jackets, as it sinks beautifully into textured, loosely woven fabrics.
Topstitching thread is designed specifically for — you guessed it — topstitching.
While standard thread can be used, topstitching thread is thicker and provides a more decorative finish, particularly on heavier weight fabrics such as denim or canvas.
When topstitching:
Use topstitching thread on the top spool only
Use regular thread in the bobbin
Fit a topstitching needle (the larger eye prevents thread breakage)
Try increasing your stitch length for a cleaner result. As a general rule, the thicker the fabric, the longer the stitch length required. A standard 2–2.5 mm stitch often disappears into heavy fabrics.
Extra-strong thread isn’t needed for most everyday sewing, but it does have its place — particularly for home furnishing projects and heavy-duty work.
This type of thread is a thicker, stronger polyester designed to withstand significant wear and tear. It’s ideal for:
Denim
Canvas
Leather
Repairs that need added strength
Tip: Extra-strong thread can also be used for topstitching if you don’t have a suitable topstitching colour available.
Metallic and embroidery threads are perfect for decorative stitching, whether by hand or machine. They’re commonly used for embroidery, embellishment, and statement details on garments and home décor projects.
Because these threads are more delicate, always use a specialist needle designed for metallic or embroidery threads to prevent shedding and snapping.
When deciding which thread to use, consider the following:
Is your fabric woven or knitted? Lightweight or heavyweight?
Match the weight of the thread to the weight of the fabric
Some sewists prefer matching thread fibre to fabric fibre (e.g. cotton with cotton)
Most of the time, an all-purpose polyester thread is sufficient
Avoid very cheap threads — with thread, you generally get what you pay for
Choose whether you want the thread to blend in or stand out decoratively
Most of the time, a good-quality all-purpose polyester thread will do the job beautifully.
Keep it simple, invest in quality, and let the fabric and technique do the work.
