Before you sew an unlined coat in double-faced wool, you need to draft an unlined double faced coat pattern specifically for this type of construction.

In this tutorial, I walk you through how to draft an unlined coat pattern from a bodice block, adapting it for a double-faced splittable wool fabric. Because the coat is unlined, every design decision; seam allowance, ease, collar shape and construction must be intentional.

This is Class 2 in a three-part series:

1. Techniques for working with double-faced (splittable) wool fabric – Blog Post | Video on YouTube

2. Drafting an unlined coat pattern | Watch Here

3. Sewing and constructing the coat – Blog Post | Video on YouTube

If you haven’t watched Class 1 yet, I recommend starting there, as the drafting decisions in this class are directly informed by the sewing techniques.

What You’ll Need Before You Start

To follow this drafting process, you’ll need a well-fitting starting point:

1. a bodice block
2. a basic pattern that fits you (e.g. my Copen pattern)

In the video, I’m working from a bodice block with approximately 1½” / 4 cm of ease at the bust, waist and hip. I chose this because I imagine that more people will have access to a bodice block than a coat block.

Overview: What We’re Drafting

By the end of this class, you’ll have drafted:

• Front and back coat pattern pieces

• A raglan sleeve with shoulder dart

• A two-piece collar (stand + fall)

• Belt and belt loops

• Patch pocket

• All seam allowances, grain lines and notches

All pattern pieces are drafted with small seam allowances (¼” / 5 mm), suitable for unlined, double-faced wool construction.

Step 1: Extending the Bodice into a Coat

I begin by extending the bodice block to coat length.

• Decide your finished coat length by measuring your body or an existing garment

• Extend the centre back and side seam down to the hem

• Draw a horizontal hem line

• Ensure the low hip is correctly positioned (approx.  8″ / 20 cm below waist if not marked, or measure your Waist to Low Hip depth)

In my sample, the coat measures 50″ / 126 cm from centre back neck to hem, and I’m drafting for a height of 5’7″ / 170 cm.

Step 2: Adding A-Line Shape to the Hem

To create movement and wearability, a subtle A-line shape is added at the hem:

• Slash from the centre of the hem to the low hip and pivot open

• Add volume through the centre of the hem – I added 2″ / 5 cm 

• Add half the insertion 1″ / 2.5 cm  to the side seam hem, as an extension

• Adjust the side seam to the length before pivoting (paper will be removed at the Low Hip)

• Raise the side seam slightly to compensate for bias stretch – ⅜”/ 1 cm 

This shaping allows the coat to drape beautifully without overwhelming the silhouette.

Step 3: Adjusting the Upper Body for a Coat Fit

Consider what you plan to wear underneath the coat; a jacket, a jumper, and add ease accordingly. The below measurements allow me to wear some of my thickest jumpers underneath the coat.

• Lower the armhole by 1½” / 4 cm

• Increase cross back by ⅜”/ 1 cm  and cross front by ¼” / 5 mm

• Extend the shoulder by ¾” / 2 cm and slightly raise by ⅛” / 2.5 mm

• Move high shoulder point away from neck by ⅜”/ 1 cm

• Remove waist darts for a cleaner, straighter line

• Add side seam ease 1½” / 4 cm – follow side seam to keep waist definition

Step 4: Drafting the Raglan Style Lines – Back

The raglan seam is drafted directly onto the body pattern:

• Mark neckline and armhole reference points – 1½” / 4 cm from centre back neck to meet armhole notches (3″ & 3¼” / 7.5 cm & 8 cm from underarm)

• Use a French curve to shape the raglan seam

This seam placement replaces a traditional shoulder seam and works beautifully with thick wool.

Step 5: Draft the Back Kick Pleat

An addition of a kick pleat at the centre back allows for walking movement:

• Mark kick pleat 6″ / 13 cm from low hip

• Kick pleat width is 2″ / 5 cm and the top angle is 1¼” / 3.5 cm  from corner

• Mark Back Right (kick pleat) and Back Left (no kick pleat)

Step 6: Drafting the Front – Removing the Bust Dart

To simplify the front for an unlined coat:

• The bust dart is rotated to a side seam dart and removed by shortening the front pattern length, to remove side seam dart width

• The centre front is extended to allow overlap by 4″ / 10 cm

• Side seam is shaped to matched the back pattern (place front onto back and copy)

Any minor bust shaping loss is acceptable in a long, structured coat.

Step 6: Drafting the Collar and Lapel

The collar is drafted directly from the body pattern:

• Roll line is established from shoulder to break point – extend shoulder by 1″ / 2.5 cm connect 12 ¾” / 32.5cm from centre front neck = roll line

Lapel width and shape are drafted visually by folded the paper along the roll line.

• Collar width at front 3⅜” / 8.5 cm

• Lapel width 3½” / 9 cm

• Gap between collar and lapel 1¾” / 4.5 cm

• Collar width at centre back 4″ / 10cm

Roll line is calculated using a 3:2 fall-to-stand ratio.

Collar stand and collar fall are created separately, either side of the roll line.

Because I am working with double-faced wool, the collar is cut as a single layer, then separated at the roll line for better fit.

Divide the roll line into four, draw three lines.

Remove ⅛” / 2 mm along three lines, on the collar stand edge that sews to collar fall.

Add ⅜”/ 1 cm to the collar fall outside edge, along three lines.

To ensure the collar stand and collar fall can sew together accurately, remove the amount removed from the collar stand from the centre back of the collar fall.

Step 7: Drafting the Raglan Style Lines – Front

The raglan seam is drafted directly onto the body pattern:

• Connect centre of neckline to armhole notch (3″ / 7.5 cm from underarm)

• Use a French curve to shape the raglan seam

Step 8: Drafting the Sleeve

The sleeve is drafted to match the adjusted body:

• Bicep width increased to match bodice ease – 1½” / 4 cm

• Underarm lowered by bodice adjustment – 1½” / 4 cm

Raglan patterns (front & back) traced directly from body patterns

Base of armhole (up to sleeve notch) copied from front and back pattern pieces onto sleeve

Shoulder dart added at sleeve head, between raglan pattern pieces – 4″ / 10cm

Elbow dart ¾” / 2 cm added for movement, extend hem to compensate

Wrist shifted forward by ¾” / 2 cm to reflect natural arm position

Step 8: Drafting the Remaining Pattern Pieces

Finally, I drafted:

Belt (with optional centre back seam, depending on fabric width): width 2½” / 6.5 cm | length 90½” / 2.5 yards / 2.3 metres

Belt loops – are drafted at 3″ / 8 cm x  ⅜” / 1 cm (placement on garment is  2¾” / 7 cm)

Patch pockets, positioned for function and balance: width 8″ / 20cm, height 10 ½”/ 27.5 cm

Hanging Loop – size: 4” × 1¼” / 10 cm × 3 cm

All pieces are labelled with grain lines, notches, seam allowances and cutting instructions.

Seam Allowances for Double-Faced Wool

For this coat, all seam allowances are ¼” / 5 mm, including:

• Side seams

• Raglan seams

• Collar seams

• Hem

This is essential for achieving clean, hand-finished internal construction without bulk.

The only pattern piece that has a larger seam allowance is the short edge of the belt loop ⅝” / 1.5 cm; required for the sewing construction.

Next Steps

Once your patterns are drafted:

1. Trace all pieces from the master pattern

2. Add seam allowances (¼” / 5 mm)

3. Cut your fabric

4. Move on to Class 3: Sewing the Unlined Coat 

In the next video, I’ll show you exactly how to construct the coat using hand-finished, couture techniques suitable for double-faced wool.