In this tutorial, you’ll learn how to sew double faced wool, also known as splittable wool fabric, for unlined and reversible coat and jacket tailoring projects.
Double faced wool, also known as splittable wool, double layered wool or double cloth is a beautiful, luxurious fabric often used for high-end unlined coats. Because the two layers of wool can be separated, the fabric allows for a clean, invisible finish without lining.
This technique produces a refined, couture-style garment, but it does require a different method of sewing.
In this tutorial, I’ll walk you through how to finish raw edges, how to sew seams, and how to sew darts when working with splittable wool.
These steps come directly from my YouTube video: How to Sew Double-Faced (Splittable) Wool | Clean Edges, Seams & Darts for an Unlined Coat
Splittable wool, also known as double-faced wool or double cloth, is a woven fabric made from two distinct layers of wool that are lightly connected during weaving. Unlike bonded or fused fabrics, these two layers can be carefully separated by hand.
This construction allows you to split the layers apart at seam allowances, hems, and edges, then turn and finish them cleanly without adding lining or bulky facings. The result is a beautifully refined, couture-style finish that is ideal for unlined coats, jackets, and tailoring projects.
It’s important to note that not all fabrics sold as ‘double-faced wool’ are splittable. Some are bonded or fused together with adhesive, meaning the layers cannot be separated. For the techniques demonstrated in this tutorial, the fabric must be genuinely splittable – always check with the supplier if this isn’t clearly stated.
I’ve written a more detailed guide explaining how to identify true splittable wool and how it differs from bonded fabrics.
Here are some shops that currently stock genuine double faced or splittable wool:
https://www.bandjfabrics.com/fabrics/double-faced-wool (check fabrics are splittable)
https://britexfabrics.com/collections/double-faced-coating (check fabrics are splittable)
Please note that except for Misan Fabrics I have not purchased from the above suppliers before.
My sample in the video comes from Tessuti Fabrics. I don’t believe the fabric was listed as splittable on their website. Always enquire before purchasing.
How to Finish Raw Edges
This method is used for:
Front coat edges
Collars and lapels
Hems
Pocket openings
Belts
Step 1 – Apply a Basting Stitch
Sew a basting stitch double the width of the finished seam allowance – usually ½” / 1 cm from the raw edge. Seam allowances on a project like this are small, usually ¼” / 5mm.
Use a long stitch length (4mm or greater) and a contrasting thread. Backstitch once at the start and end.
Step 2 – Separate the Two Layers
Using snips or small scissors, gently pull the two layers of material apart by cutting the joining threads. Cut from the raw edge of the fabric up to the basting line. Do not cut through the basting stitch.
Step 3 – Press the Separated Layers
Press carefully. Some wools with nap may be affected by the steam from an iron. Test the iron. Use a pressing cloth as required.
Press the layers of fabric together, or separately on each separated seam allowance.
Step 4 – Apply a Guide Stitch
Stitch ¼” / 5 mm (seam allowance) from the raw edge of the material, on the two newly separated seam allowances.
Use a regular stitch length (2.5 mm) and a matching thread. This stitch remains in the garment.
For corners (lapel, collar), pivot the needle at the corner for both the basting stitch and the guide stitch.
Step 5 – Trim the Seam Allowances
Trim the separated seam allowance layers by ⅛” / 3 mm (more for very thick wool).
Step 6 – Fold on the Guide Stitch
Fold the seam allowances to the wrong side along the guide stitch. Press in position if required.
Both layers fold inward toward the centre of the separated seam allowance.
Step 7 – Hand Sew with a Ladder Stitch
Using matching thread and a small needle, hand sew the seam using a ladder stitch or invisible stitch:
Secure the thread inside the seam allowance.
Work in stitches that measure ⅛”- ¼” (3mm).
To make the stitches invisible sew from each side of the folded fabric, entering the folded fabric, parallel to where the previous stitch exited the fabric.
Do not pull too tightly – this may pucker the seam.
The stitch should look invisible from the outside.
I have a YouTube tutorial for sewing an invisible stitch or ladder stitch – watch it here: How to: Invisible Stitching.
If you are working with a corner, the seam allowances can be folded in opposite directions to reduce bulk. The invisible stitch will be sewn around the corner, place the stitches closer together if needed.
Step 8 – Remove the Basting Stitch & Press
Remove the original basting stitch.
Give the edge a press for a crisp finish. Use the iron as required for your fabric choice.
Step 1 – Decide on the Direction of the Seam
Firstly, choose the direction the seam allowances will be pressed towards (usually the back of the garment). For this example I am sending my seam allowances towards the left.
Step 2 – Add a Basting Stitch to the ‘Receiving’ Side
Sew a basting stitch along one side of the seam to be constructed. Sew the basting stitch to the side of the garment that will have the seam allowances pressed towards it.
Complete the basting stitch ½” / 1 cm from the raw edge (or double the chosen seam allowance).
Separate the two layers of fabric up to the basting stitch.
Step 3 – Apply a Guide Stitch (One Layer Only)
Guide stitch only the bottom (wrong side) of the separated seam allowance of the fabric.
The guide stitch should be completed on the stitching line, approximately ¼” / 5 mm from the raw edge of the material.
Complete in a matching thread, using a 2.5mm stitch length. The guide stitch remains in the finished garment.
Step 4 – Sew the Seam
Place the fabric with the right sides together.
Sew the seam at ¼” / 5 mm (chosen seam allowance), attaching the unseparated layers to the top separated seam allowance.
Do not catch the bottom separated seam allowance whilst sewing.
Step 5 – Trim Seam Allowances
Trim the seam allowances from the sewn seam, as well as the guide-stitched separated seam allowance by ⅛” / 3 mm. Thick fabric may need more trimming.
Step 6 – Press the Seam Allowances Toward the Side with the Basting Stitch
Step 7 – Turn Under & Slipstitch
Working from the wrong side of the material.
Fold and press if required the separated, guide-stitched seam allowance along the guide stitch and slipstitch to the sewn seam line.
This finishes the wrong side of the the seam invisibly.
Step 7 – Removing the Basting Stitch and Press – Finished Sewn Seam
Tips for Crossing Seams
Continue the same technique through any intersecting / joining seams.
There will be a greater amount of bulk where the seam is positioned; but this can be sewn over as normal.
Tips for Seams Ending into a Hem or Edge that requires finishing separately
If a seam flows into an outside edge that will be finished using the first method (e.g. a hem). Follow these tips:
Stop sewing the seam at the basting stitch for the outside edge. The basting stitch and guide stitch can continue the full length of the seam.
Example: for a side seam sew from the underarm seam down to the hem, stopping where the basting stitch will be applied for the hem.
Example: for the centre back seam of a belt (example pictured), start and stop sewing the basting stitch distance on both ends of the seam. As both the top and bottom of the belt edge will be finished.
Trim and press the seam as normal.
Hand sew the seam only within the sewn section. Do not hand sew past where the basting stitch will be applied for the edge that needs finishing (e.g. a hem).
The next step would be to complete a basting stitch, separated the layers and complete a guide stitch for the ‘outside’ edge of the garment that needs finishing (e.g. hem, edge of belt).
Before completing the basting stitch and guide stitch it can be useful to hand sew each side of the separated seam allowances; continuing the sewn seam. The hand sewing does not have to be pretty, a rough slip stitch or running stitch is fine. But securing the seam within the separated seam allowances, ensures that the seam join will be correct through the basting stitch and guide stitch.
It can be possible to hold the separated seam allowances in position whilst sewing the basting and guide stitch at the sewing machine, avoiding the requirement for this hand sewing. But, roughly hand sewing these separated seam allowances does make the method easier.
Trim the seam allowances and hand sew the edge using a ladder stitch. Add a few more stitches, closer together over the seam join for an invisible finish.
Step 1 – Mark the Dart
Use chalk on the wrong side of the fabric to mark the dart stitching line. Alternatively you can thread trace the stitching line of the dart.
Step 2 – Add a Basting Stitch on One Side
The basting stitch goes on the side of the dart, where the dart seam allowances will be pressed towards (usually the hem or back of the garment).
Position it:
½” / 1 cm from the raw edge of the material
¼” / 5 mm from the dart stitching line
Step 3 – Separate the Layers
Separate the layers of material up to the basting stitch. As completed on other seams.
Continue separating the layers of material up to and through the dart point. The stitching line of the entire dart needs to be accessed to allow sewing of the guide stitch and the dart seam.
Clip into the centre of the dart, to allow access for sewing. Complete this only on the wrong side of the material, once it is separated from the front layer.
This will become a process, clipping into the centre of the dart, then continuing to separate the layers of material, before clipping into the centre of the dart again. Complete until the entire dart stitching line can be accessed on the side of the dart that has the basting stitch.
Step 4 – Guide Stitch the Dart
Complete a guide stitch along the dart stitching line on the wrong side of the separated fabric, seam allowance.
Stitch from the dart opening towards the dart point.
Step 5 – Sew the Dart
Place the right sides of the material together. Match the un-separated material to the top separated seam allowance.
Sew the dart normally, from dart opening to dart point, backstitching at both ends.
Keep the bottom separated seam allowance (with the guide stitch) out of the way during sewing.
Step 6 – Trim & Press
Trim both the sewn dart seam allowances and the separated guide stitched seam allowance by ⅛” / 3 mm.
Press using a tailor’s ham.
Once sewn the dart will look like this from the right side (basting stitch still visible – this will be removed).
And this from the wrong side.
Step 7 – Turn Under & Slipstitch
Working from the wrong side of the dart fold the separated seam allowance under along the guide stitch, press if required. Slipstitch into place from dart opening to dart point.
Use smaller stitches, closer together near the dart tip to keep the work looking neat.
Remove the basting stitch.
Finished dart from the right side.
Finished dart from the wrong side.
This finishing method creates beautifully clean, fully reversible edges and seams, with no lining and no visible stitching, exactly what you want for an unlined, double-faced coat.
The next step is to:
1. Draft an Unlined Double Faced Coat – blog post
2. Sew an Unlined Double Faced Coat Step-by-Step – blog post
