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How to Draft and Sew an Unlined Coat: Complete Tutorial Series

This unlined coat tutorial walks you through the full process of drafting and sewing an unlined coat, with links to each step in the series. Creating a beautifully tailored unlined coat at home is completely achievable when you break the process into manageable steps.

In my latest YouTube series, I walk you through drafting your own unlined coat pattern, working with a double layered splittable fabric, and finally sewing the entire coat from start to finish.

I decided to divide the project into three videos to keep the instructions clear and detailed. Each part focuses on one skill, allowing you to follow along at your own pace; depending on your project, pick and choose the videos that work for you.

Below, you’ll find an overview of the series and links to each tutorial.

Finished unlined wool coat with belt, demonstrating clean construction and tailoring techniques.


PART 1: How to Sew Double Faced Splittable Fabric

Perfect technique guide for this project.

Many coats use double layered or double faced fabric, which requires a different sewing approach from standard single-layer textiles.

In this video, I demonstrate:

  • How to separate and control the layers

  • How to create clean, reversible seams

  • How to finish edges

  • Tips for sewing darts in double faced fabric
  • Techniques to achieve a professional finish

This tutorial is essential if you want your coat to look clean and structured without a lining.

Watch the full tutorial: How to Sew Double Layered Fabric – Blog Post | YouTube Video

Separating the two layers of double faced wool up to the basting line.


PART 2: How to Draft an Unlined Coat Pattern

Custom drafting for a perfect fit.

Before sewing, we need the perfect pattern.

In this drafting lesson, I guide you through:

  • Drafting from a personal bodice block

  • How to draft the body, raglan sleeves and collar of a coat

  • Adding ease for comfort and movement

  • Choosing design details

  • Preparing the pattern pieces for cutting

Drafting your own pattern ensures your coat fits your body, not a standardised size chart.

Watch the full tutorial: How to Draft a Unlined Coat Pattern – Blog Post | YouTube Video

Hand drafting a coat pattern from a bodice block using a ruler and measurements.


PART 3: How to Sew an Unlined Coat with Double Faced Wool Step-by-Step

Full construction using the drafted pattern and double layered fabric techniques.

In the final video, we bring everything together.

I teach you:

  • Preparing and sewing the double-layered fabric

  • Assembling the coat in a logical order

  • Attaching raglan sleeves

  • Sewing a separate collar and collar band (collar stand and fall)

  • Final pressing and shaping

This is a deep-dive, detailed construction tutorial that walks you through each stage so you can confidently sew your own coat from start to finish.

Watch the full tutorial: How to Sew a Coat Step-By-Step – Blog Post | YouTube Video

Originally Published: 10 January 2026
Updated: 3 February 2026

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