How to draft an A-line skirt for an existing bodice finishing at the empire line, including two options for distributing volume through the A-line shape
How to complete a Full Bust Adjustment on a dart less bodice. Step by step process from looking at the original measurements to complete the adjustment. Answering the question do you need a dart?
Balancing a neckline on a garment to prevent gaping. How to draft a neckline from scratch
Discussion on jersey neckbands (circle neck and v-neck)
How to draft a V Neckline (high and low options) - looking at low neckline rules
Draft a V-Neck band for jersey
How to sew a V-Neck jersey neckband; with a seam at the centre front
Options for sewing a V-Neckline with binding in a woven fabric; binding both sides of the neckband (seam at centre front), binding on the inside of the garment (seam at centre front), V-Neck binding using jersey method (seam visible on the inside) (cross over at centre front)
Ideas for adding decorative stitches to Copen
Fitting a member's Copen dress
Rounded back adjustment
Best fabric for making samples (toiles) from. (Calico - term used in the UK | Muslin - USA)
Options for hemming jersey material (2-step zigzag, 3-step zigzag, blind hem, straight stitch, wonky straight stitch, fake coverstitch or twin needle and blind hem)
Why and how to interface hems. Interfacing jersey hems, as well as general rules to follow when interfacing other garments
Sewing a blind hem on a jersey garment
Sewing a twin needle straight stitch for a fake coverlock / coverstitch hem
Fitting the front of a armhole that feels too tight. What are the options
Stabilising / stay stitching armholes, when do you need to stabilise armholes? What are the rules to follow
Does overlocker thread quality matter?
Draft a circle flounce to the bottom of a sleeve. How to draft a circle
Draft Aria with a lower front neckline. This will require a separate front facing pattern. (Aria)
Sewing Aria with a separate front facing pattern. (Aria)
Fitting Copen. (Copen)
What size seam allowance should you use in a sample or toile?
Fitting armhole height. Where should the armhole sit on the body? (Copen)
How to the waist to the hip of the garment. Fitting the toile and adjusting the pattern. (Copen)
Raise the armhole on a pattern. (Copen)
Do you need a bust dart in a jersey garment? How to remove a dart for a jersey garment; comparing two methods. (Copen)
How to ease a dart instead of sewing it. Is there a rule for easing the dart?
Working with a plaid fabric, when you can't match the shoulder seams? Drafting a yoke and cutting the yoke on the bias or an alternative grainline to create a design detail
Bouclé fabric examples, what the fabric is like to work with
Fitting Copen. Do we need to tweak the broad shoulder adjustment? Is the narrow back adjustment too much? Has the shoulder seam been moved forward too much? It is now visible from the front. (Copen)
Fitting Aria. Is the shoulder adjustment correct? Is the narrow back adjustment correct. (Aria)
Fitting Copen. (Copen)
Sway back adjustment on Copen. (Copen)
Increase back waist darts. (Copen)
Fitting sleeves and armholes on Copen. (Copen)
How to increase the size of the bicep. Bicep adjustment. (Copen)
Forward shoulder adjustment for the sleeve. (Copen)
Do you need to stabilise (stay stitch/use stay tape) on the armhole of a garment? Do you need to stabilise the neck or armhole of a jersey/knit garment? (Copen)
Fitting Copen dress. (How to know if you need a FBA? Full Bust Adjustment drag lines). (Copen)
Copen samples; 50% size. (Copen)
Favouring; where to add favouring on a facing? Do you need to favour the centre back of a facing? (Copen)
How to finish 3/8" (1cm) seam allowances
Sewing a French Seam with a 3/8" (1cm) seam allowance
Sewing a Hong Kong Binding seam
When to use a 3-thread vs 4-thread overlocker / serger?
Fitting Aria. (Aria)
Shoulder slope adjustment - Aria pattern
Average shoulder slope? How to measure a shoulder slope
Tips for sewing an invisible zipper without problems. Ensure the zipper is introduced into a garment without any bumps. We discuss the following: invisible zipper foot, standard zip foot, interfacing and sewing techniques. (Copen)
Step-by-step fitting for a pattern. (Copen)
How to complete a sway back adjustment for a pattern with a centre back seam and a pattern cut on the fold at the centre back. (Copen)
Complete a wide shoulder adjustment. (Copen)
Sleeve and armhole fitting on a sample. (Copen)
Add ease to the back armhole. (Copen)
Remove extra fabric (vertical draglines) in the back of the garment. (Copen)
Tips for making a sample (toile) garment. What construction can you miss out? Weight of calico to use? Tips to stop calico from fraying
How to mark your bust apex on your toile, move the marked bust apex from the toile (sample) to the flat pattern. Lower (move) the bust apex and dart on the pattern. (Copen)
Differences between a full abdomen adjustment and adding to the side seams of a garment. (Aria)
How to draft a French dart; curved French dart. (Aria)
Sleeve fitting: increase the size of the shoulder, raise the armhole. (Copen)
Sleeve fitting: add more room to the back of the sleeve, this gives more room when moving the arms forward. (Copen)
When to change the pattern based on fabric thickness. (Aria)
How to add a slit or opening to the Aria dress; making a midi-length, longer Aria dress. (Aria)
Talking about a Narrow Shoulder Adjustment on the Aria Pattern. The Narrow Shoulder Adjustment removed too much across the upper back. What can you do instead? (Aria)
Chat about Interfacing products. What Interfacing to use, with what fabric, what to consider
How to fit the Aria pattern; possible sloping shoulder, gaping under the arm and at the back neck. (Aria)
Sloping Shoulder Adjustment on a standard block (Copen)
Sloping Shoulder Adjustment (2 options) on the Aria pattern, a cowl neck pattern (Aria)
Complete a Small Bust Adjustment on the Aria pattern. (Aria)
Fitting Aria. How to improve the drape of the cowl neck, 'fix' the cowl shape in place. (Aria)
Looking at the fit of the Copen pattern. Check measurements. Decide to decrease the size of the pattern at the Bust, Waist and Hip (based on Finished Garment Measurements). How to take in the pattern. (Copen)
How to add a fisheye or contour dart into a pattern; at the front and back. (Copen)
Tips for doing a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) on the Copen pattern. (Copen)
How to draft a sleeveless facing on the Copen pattern. (Copen)
Using interfacing instead of stay stitching. What interfacing do you need to use? Can you use this on the armhole? Do you need to clip into the neckline
Discussion about sewing seams on the overlocker/serger. Do you need to sew on the sewing machine as well as the overlocker / serger
What do you if you have a very small dart left after doing a Small Bust Adjustment SBA (e.g. 5mm (1/4"))
What difference does cutting the front bodice on the bias do for the Aria pattern; Aria neckline discussion. Tips for working with a stretch knit / jersey fabric with the Aria pattern. (Aria)
Make a jersey / knit Aria. Remove the side dart and add more drape to the neckline of the pattern. (Aria)
Cowl neck, narrow shoulder adjustment. (Aria)
Raising the underarm of a pattern and sleeve. (Aria)
Sewing the shoulders and neckline of the Aria pattern. (Aria)
How to choose the right size pattern, grading between sizes at the Bust, Waist and Hip. (Copen)
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